Wandering Amongst Canals
I didn’t sleep too well even though I have a nice hotel room at Allogia Artista. The Kadinsky room with a huge framed print and Ikea lights to be exact. I even had a balcony though not a view. It was really cold and the blankets weren’t thick enough. I had the thermostat set on auto and apparently it wasn’t good enough. On top of this starting at 6am the local church started to ring it’s bell every hour at quarter past for mass or something. I ended up getting up at 8:00 after a restless night. Breakfast was continental with an espresso, apricot croissant, banana, and juice.
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After breakfast I started walking south across town intending to go to the San Marco district where all the main tourist attractions were but ended up in Dorosduro where it was mostly residential. It also seemed to be the academic area. I did find a Venetian mask maker though, Blue Moon Mask. This clerk at the store, Rita, explained the tradition of Venetian masks to me. I didn’t buy anything since I had a whole day ahead of photographing but would come back tomorrow.
I continued on until I finally reached San Marco and the iconic Rialto Bridge. I did a lot of wandering in the maze of Venetian streets looking at all the shops with their high design wares. Apparently everybody here got the message that brown is in too. I’ve been a big fan of brown since last winter and eventually preferred the natural aspect of shades of green with brown. Here it’s more autumnal with beautiful burnt oranges and yellows paired with brown. I even passed what appeared to be a gondola shipyard. The gondolas are more luxurious than I expected, but then again they should be for how much they charge. For lunch I had a slice of vegetarian pizza from a snack bar. I followed this with gelato at a nearby gelateria even though it was bitterly cold outside. Temperature was in the 40ºs with ocean breeze which made it worse. I had to see what a decent gelato tasted like in Italy. I had tiramisu and vanilla. Like in Paris the vanilla was “French” style with egg yolk that added a nice body that coalesced with the generous vanilla flavor. I have to say though that I prefer ice cream (more air) especially the one I had in Paris though that was double the price.
In the afternoon I visited Piazza San Marco, the historic entrance to Venice and the center of power. It’s where the St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doges Palace is. Lets just say there are a lot of pigeons in the square that aren’t afraid of people. In fact there are carts that sell bread crumbs to feed the pigeons and they swarm all over you. It’s a cheap and entertaining tourist attraction which made for some interesting photos. I also went up on top of the Campanile tower for a great panoramic view of Venice and the surrounding islands. Unfortunately, the industrial factories on the mainland spoil the view to the west.
On the way back to my hotel after the Kool-Aid neon red sunset I ended up walking in circles nearly twice before finding the appropriate path with signs. It wasn’t the shortest path though it forced me to walk through parts of town that I otherwise wouldn’t have which was a positive thing. I ended doing reading and research for an hour and a half before having a late dinner of seafood risotto. It was the best risotto I’ve had that I didn’t make for not being made to order. It came out rather quickly which meant it was obviously half way cooked when I ordered it.
My impressions of Venice after a day are that it is indeed serenissima. It’s beautiful and mysterious. It is a miracle of a city rising out of the water. It’s easy to imagine that a people powerful enough to build an entire city on stilts could rule and empire, but at the same it’s hard to imagine the Venetian Republic ruling an empire because it’s such a small and isolated place. Thing thing that probably impressed me most was how socially intimate the Venetians are. I guess it helps that there are only 60,000 native Venetians and 15 million visitors a year. You can tell who are the natives because they stop to greet each other on the street and chat for a bit. There’s also always a local chatting with a shopkeeper in the smaller stores. It seems that all Venetians have dogs too which they take with them as they walk around town. And finally, older Italian women love their fur coats.
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