Paris III

This morning morning I got up and took a walk through Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise. The cemetery was humongous and I had no idea where I was going because I was too cheap to buy a map outside. The most striking thing was that people of different ethnicities and religions were buried together in this big cemetery. It’s the whole French egalitarian motto. It was drizzly which added to the atmosphere. At one point I took a photo and then all these crows starting squaking which freaked me out for a sec. I tried walking to the otherside of the cemetery to exit but never got there. I’m not even sure there is an exit over on that side. It was too big. I ended up turning around and walking back to where I entered.

Cemetery in Paris

Next I went to Porte de Cligancourt to check out the market there. This probably wasn’t the best of ideas as the riots were occuring in the suburbs at that point. But I didn’t even know about the riots at that time. After the Gard Du Nord station metro stop the racial shift on the train was quite noticeable. There weren’t that many white people going out there compared to Arab and Africans. It was really socially interesting to see such a dramatic shift. On the metro there was also this annoying as hell impromptu karaoke performers. They would get on with a boombox and mic and start singing. They were like street performers but much worse because you couldn’t get away if they sucked. This happened twice. By the end of this trip and the metro exploits I’ll be quite good at saying pahhhh don.

I got off at Les Halles which used to be the historical food center/market for Paris. Now it’s where the French middle class hangs out apparently. The Champs Elysees is for the tourists and the wealthy but the real Paris seems to be here. It also seems to be where the vice and sex shops are. It was a Saturday afternoon so there were a lot of people out shopping and eating. It was the first place I was where I didn’t hear anything but French. The only reason I got off there was because Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential, runs a restaurant named after the area. I checked out the Bodum tea and coffee store and bought some thermo glasses. I walked around and saw a dog in dreadlocks which caused people to smile as it passed them.

I met up with half of the group for dinner at this fondue place. I didn’t get fondue but got escargot, cockerel with sides, and creme brulee. It was satisfying but not the best examples I’ve ever had. It was fun though because there were so many people eating together so I got to taste a lot of other people’s dishes. They make the fondue strong here in terms of wine added. Afterwards we walked past the Notre Dame and encountered these bums with guitars near this quirky bookstore with a bed you can sleep on if you work there for a few hours. One of my flatmates in London, Brett, was called over to play with them so after much protestation he did. The bums were from London and California. It was weird but one of those travel memories you’ll remember for the rest of your life.

Brett playing guitar with bums

Where we were really trying to go was to this bar Caveau des Oubliet. It’s famous for good jazz. When we finally found it the place was packed and smoky as hell down in the wine cellar turned into jazz venue. The space was really small and there was no ventilation really but we were standing for some time listening to amazing gypsy jazz. It really rounded out my French experience. As the night went on the smoke didn’t get any better but some seats opened up as people left. The performers were Moreno & Marina Quartet. I witnessed some of the best guitar playing I’ve ever seen in my life. Two people played on the same guitar at one point! I didn’t even know that was possible. And one guy used a wine glass as a slide for his guitar on one song. The people in that place were much nicer than other Parisian I’ve encountered and everyone seemed to be having a good time listening to some incredible music. We were in there ’til 2am or so when they finally finished their last set. Outside this guy actually spoke to us in English because he was happy after listening to that music. I guess it did help that I said I was from San Francisco. We asked this friendly couple to take our photo outside but when handing the camera over to her she dropped it. She swore in French first, Merde, which was expected then translated it, shit, for our benefit in case we didn’t understand it the first time around. I thought that was funny. The camera was fine though. Man did I reek of smoke after that night but I say it was worth it for the experience.

Gypsy Jazz

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